Charles Melton may have got his translation wrong but his Nine Popes blend is now a true Australian classic

The Barossa Valley owes a lot to Charlie Melton, who in the mid-80s with a small group of other winemakers, rebuilt the reputation for the region, creating a distinctive wine style that has come to be known as GSM — grenache shiraz mataro. And his own Nine Popes is now an Australian classic. The latest Melton releases from the great 2018 vintage are as good as I can recall. In the 80s, the Barossa was losing its mantle as one of the country’s premier wine regions as many new cooler climate regions with newer varieties opened up, pulling new wine drinkers into the lighter less robust styles. But Melton, with a small group that included Barossa legends Peter Lehmann and Rockford’s Rocky O’Callaghan, first convinced growers not to pull out their historic old vineyards, and then wine drinkers to return to the Barossa and a new and emerging styles. That was the grenache shiraz mataro (also called mourvedre) blend, based on some of the oldest vines in the region and built on similar lines to the great blends of France’s Rhone Valley, a region Melton had become fascinated in. Melton was a pioneer of the combination when he created his first grenache shiraz and in 1988, before adding mataro a couple of years later to complete what has become an Aussie standard from warmer regions. So, relying on his limited to non-existent French, he based his new wine of the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape of the Rhone. Melton’s translation of the name to the House of the Nine Popes saw him create his famous Nine Popes blend. Unfortunately, or fortunately, he had erred in his translation which should have been House of the New Pope. But the result was one of the most famous errors in Australian wine, and created what has become a true Aussie classic. Since then, Melton has expanded his range of wines using his own dry grown vineyards and sourcing from other growers in the Barossa and Eden valleys, plus a vineyard planted by his father-in-law in the Clare Valley. Among the latest releases, that include, what is colloquially referred to as Popes, is the Voices of Angels and elegantly structured shiraz. It is a fascinating wines that incorporates 4 per cent riesling. Melton was familiar with the idea of blending whites varieties with red wine working with Lehmann, who had previously used muscadelle in some wines during his time at Saltram. Melton believes the addition of the lower alcohol riesling is an important contribution to the finished wine. The wines are in quite small volumes and some are only available from the cellar door or mailing list, but this is a maker who should be on everyone’s list. Go to www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au. Oh, and by the way, Melton’s real name is Graeme, but old Peter Lehmann thought it sounded weird, so called him Charlie — and so Charlie it is. Charles Melton Nine Popes 2018 ($98.90) One of Australia’s most famous and significant wines. It’s a blend of Barossa grenache shiraz and mataro, and Melton was one of the first to really push this classic Rhone blend back in the 80s when people had forgotten what the Barossa could do. It created quite a niche for this style and so many other followed as a result. Melton has adopted a grenache dominant style with shiraz and mataro adding to the blend. It gets 70 per cent French and 30 per cent American oak for 30 months, although only 25 per cent is new. It is a wine of complexity and layers with a mix of sweet fruit and spices all under a highly scented aroma. Grainy slightly chalky tannins hold it neatly. A modern classic. 98/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2040) Charles Melton Voices of Angels 2018 ($87.90) This is a most interesting wine on a number of levels. For a start, Melton has spread his wings to grab the fruit from the Adelaide Hills. And in addition to the shiraz, 4 per cent riesling from the same vineyard was co-fermented. Melton of course made wines with Peter Lehmann and adding white varieties to red wines, as is done now with viognier, was one of the things they did. And then 10 per cent was whole bunch fermented before the whole thing was run into new French oak for 30 months. I’m not sure I have tasted a better one. Lifted perfumed sweet red fruit aromatics with a delightful cedary fragrance. The palate is smoothly integrated, capturing the elegance and finesse of the Adelaide Hills. 97/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2040) Charles Melton Grains of Paradise 2018 ($87.90) This is a small production shiraz from the Barossa that Melton gives traditional Barossa treatment with a modern touch of finesse. The wine is quite brilliant. Gets all American oak, which is superfine and immersion bent. There is such a beautiful combination of sweet fruit and oak with a trace of thyme and black olive. The palate has a wonderful feel with grainy tannins adding to the textural feel. This is a wine that will happily cellar for many years. 96/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2045) Charles Melton cabernet sauvignon 2018 ($58.90) The 2018 vintage was good one for cabernet in the Barossa. The powerful fruit has been given some powerful treatment. It’s had 30 months in barriques of which 60 per cent was new French and the remainder seasoned American oak. Such oak treatment will only work when you have the fruit to play with, and in this year Melton had it in spades. Perfumed cedary aromatics with a trace of mint. The palate is seamlessly structured with grainy tannins and ample oak to support its journey. Smooth and seductive with a great lingering finish. 95/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2037) Charles Melton The Father in Law Single Vineyard Reserve shiraz 2018 ($58.90) Oh, wow. This single vineyard wine comes from a Clare Valley vineyard planted by Melton’s father-in-law. In an excellent year like this, it is kept separate and put into 100 per cent new American oak barriques. Too much oak, you might say — no way. The intensity of the fruit has gobbled it up, creating a thoroughly gorgeous wine with remarkable finesse and poise. There is an elegance about it. Lots of that minty dark chocolate character that is a part of the Clare Valley with characters not unlike Coonawarra. So bright and brilliant. Love it. 96/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2037) Charles Melton The Kirche shiraz cabernet 2018 ($44) A compelling and marvellous blend of these two varieties sourced from Melton’s Kirche vineyard and another down at Rowland Flat nearby. Tremendous rich and concentrated dark Barossa fruit has been merged under a canopy of 30 months in oak of which 30 per cent was new. It was regularly stirred to add further textured and palate complexity. Has the perfumed scents of cabernet with the traditional richness and density of the shiraz. Excellent. 95/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2034)