St Hallett relies on the rich resource of old vine shiraz to make it a Barossa Valley standout

It was almost as if someone had turned the light on. Back in the 80s, the Barossa Valley was struggling with an image problem. The warm climate full-bodied reds that had been the mainstay of the region for more than 100 years had lost favour. The cool climate revolution had begun. It prompted a period of reinvention and clever marketing which eventually saw this great region restore itself to the taste buds of the world. St Hallett was coming from even farther back, as it still made largely fortified wines, which had by that stage well and truly lost their appeal. So, it changed focus to its red wines and more importantly it recognised that its rich resource of old vine shiraz represented a significant marketing opportunity. And so, St Hallett Old Block shiraz was launched, becoming one of the first to make a statement about the old vines on a wine label. Many others have followed and the rest, as they say, is history. St Hallett is now owned by Accolade Wines and the wines continue to be some of the best in Barossa shiraz, with that famous Old Block still a major part of the portfolio. The silky-smooth full-bodied palate remains a feature of the wine which offers both excellent current drinking and great cellaring potential. This week I have featured three of the St Hallett shiraz, each displaying individuality and points of difference that largely reflect vintage and fruit sourcing, while remaining true to the Barossa style and heritage. It remains one of my favourite Barossa wineries. St Hallett Old Block shiraz 2017 ($159) One of the first Barossa producers to highlight using old vines. In fact, the average age of the wines in this vintage is 97 years — so yes, some of the vines are seriously old. Smooth and keenly balanced with soft supple fruit supported by fine firmish tannins and oak. Dark chocolate fruit flavours with ripe plum and pepper. It’s a solid and expressive wine that is built for extended cellaring to take advantage of those old vines. 95/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2042) St Hallett Higher Earth syrah 2019 ($60) In making this relatively lighter style compared to most Barossa reds, St Hallett have sourced the fruit from the cooler Eden Valley. It works very well, especially in this dry low-yielding vintage. Generous, rich and soft with lashings of mulberry blue fruit flavours with some nice peppery cherry characters. The chalky fine tannins work so well to help define what is a beautifully poised and balanced wine. 94/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2032) St Hallett Blackwell shiraz 2019 ($55) Recognises the significant contribution of St Hallett legendary former winemaker Stuart Blackwell. There is almost an initial prettiness about this wine from the seductively aromatic perfumes aromas of violet and plum through to a palate that is generous but admirably restrained. The tannins have a minerally chalky feel, providing clear focus and precision. The oak is balanced and the fruit characters persist. Like it as a cellaring wine. 93/100 (Best drinking: Now to 2037)