Shochu, sake, Sakura grapefruit, absinthe and Virtu tonic.

The Someiyoshino cocktail draws together this local produce and brings an authentic taste of Japan to a glass.

And it is just one of the many signature cocktails on the menu in Virtu, the 39th floor bar at Four Seasons Tokyo at Otemachi.

And, just to recap, sochu is a beverage distilled from rice.

Sakura is cherry blossom, and the refreshing Sakura grapefruit is named for this as it blends tart citrus with delicate, floral cherry blossom notes.

It is calculated there are more than 30,000 bars in Tokyo.

Its bar culture is thriving, with the leaders embracing local produce, artisan craftsmanship and art as much as they do, well, drinking itself.

The best of these bars have a deep sense of inclusion and intimacy.

“Showa-era sense of intimacy,” as one local tells me.

For, to walk into a good bar in Japan is to walk into an art gallery, a performance space, a place where the simple act of going out for a drink has become a highly curated, deeply respectful and communal ritual.

And it is not all about alcohol. In fact, the Someiyoshino is 9 per cent proof, and there are no-alcohol gin options.

The zero-alcohol Harukaze, here in Virtu, is made from Kanzan Sakura, yuzu (a citrus fruit like a small grapefruit), egg white, and Virtu Sakura tonic.

Now, here’s a trick in a bar in Tokyo. Start at one side and use your eyes like a scanner. Look across the whole room, taking in every detail.

And the rather opulent Virtu, which brings Parisian Art Deco design and Tokyo’s urbane sensibilities together in one echo of the early 1920s, is no exception. While the backdrop is the view over Tokyo from floor-to-ceiling windows, and the 10m-long communal table in the centre, look for the detail in the local textiles.

Read the stories and legends, from both Japan and Europe, included in the 28-page menu. All signature cocktails are ¥4100 ($36).

But you’re paying for more than a drink.

LISTING LOCALS

The team at Virtu don’t just love their bar.

They loves bars, plural.

And they particularly love not only Tokyo bars, but people who love Tokyo bars.

The staff here will “talk Tokyo bars” as long as you want, and list recommendations of other bars to visit.

“But we got tired of writing on bits of paper,” says bar staffer Graham Kimura.

And so the team have produced a sheet of recommendations which it gives to customers looking to explore more, by area …

SHIBUYA

Bar Trench + Tram & Triad. 1-5-8 DIS Bld. 102, Ebisu Nishi.

The SG Club. 1-7-8 Jinan.

The Bellwood. 41-31 Udagawa-cho.

Liquid Factory. 42-12-101, Udagawa-cho.

Flying Bumblebee. 3-7 B1F, Daikanyama-cho.

Swig. 1-6-3, Shibuya.

DBL. 5-3-15 HHB 5F, Hiroo.

SHINJUKU

Bar Benfiddich. 1-13-7 9F Yamatoya Building.

Spirits Bar Sunface Shinjuku. I-13-7 Yamatoya Building 10F.

Jeremiah Tokyo. 5-4-1 Shinjuku Flat Building.

MINATO

Gold Bar at Edition Hotel. The Tokyo Edition, 4-1-1 Toranomon.

Memento Mori. 1-17-1 Toranomon Hills, Business Tower 3F, Toranomon.

Bar Amber. 2-25-11 Tamura Building, Nishiazabu.

Qwang. 3-1-18 B1F, Nishiazabu.

Ferri’s. 4-11-11, Nishiazabu.

Tokyo Confidential. 1-Chome-6-1 Azabujuban.

Bar Wakabayashi. 7-5-14 City Plaza Kamata 3F, Nishikamata.

CHIYODA

Folklove. 1-7-7, Uchisaiwai cho.

Mixology Heritage. 1-7-1, Uchisaiwai-cho.

SG Tavern. 1-4-1 Marunouchi IF.

GINZA

Bar Libre + Bar Libre Ginza. 3-25-8 Somaya Bldg B1F, Nishi Ikebukuro, Toshima

Quarter Room. 5-10-7 Nakahara-sou B1F, Daita, Setagaya.

The Bvlgari Bar. Bvlgari Hotel, 2-2-1 Yaesu, Chuo.

Apollo Bar Ginza. 8-2-15 Meiko Building, B1F.

Mori Bar Gran. Sakura Marks Ginza 612, 6-12-12.

Rock Fish. 7-3-13 7F, Ginza.

Little Smith. 6-4-12 B2F, Ginza.

Bar Orchard Ginza. 6-5-16 7F, Ginza.

Punch Room Tokyo. The Tokyo Edition, 2-8-13, Ginza.

SHOWA-ERA INTIMACY

The echo of the Showa era is that of the intimacy of people living together under Emperor Hirohito, who was formally known as Emperor Showa.

The era lasted from December 25, 1926, to January 7, 1989 — those 62 years representing the longest single-monarch era in Japanese history.

And, during those years, close relationships were expected, as was physical proximity.

A Showa-era sense of intimacy.

Going to meet someone. Going to pick someone up. Working together.

Close relationships were expressed through the daily rhythm. Through structure and routines, and reliance on one another.

There was an undercurrent of quiet devotion to community, family and friends.

But it also has to be said that life in the Showa era was very much defined by traditional gender roles. Couples lived under strict societal rules.

Men were committed to work and public loyalty, and often went with colleagues to local izakayas (bars), creating strong and intimate bonds with other men.

Women were more likely to live in a domestic bubble. Is there an echo of this in the groups of women coming into Four Seasons Tokyo at Otemachi every day for high tea?

Marriages often came from arranged meetings (omiai), and couples very rarely showed affection in public.

That sort of intimacy, in the Showa era, belonged at home.

+ Stephen Scourfield was a guest of Four Seasons. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

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For prices, offers and bookings at Four Seasons Tokyo at Otemachi, visit fourseasons.com/jp/otemachi/offers