Maestro Sourdough Pizza review: April Ooi visits North Beach pizzeria for Neapolitan-style pizzas and tiramisu

Plenty of restaurants claim humble beginnings, but few can say they began on a balcony during COVID lockdowns. Maestro Sourdough Pizza owner Andrea Brunelli started slinging pizzas from his apartment, serving his friends and neighbours — now he serves North Beach locals that bustle through the minute the pizzeria opens. Not only is Maestro a local favourite, it has also been acknowledged globally, as the only pizzeria in WA to be recognised by the 50 Top Pizza guide. Naturally, I knew I had to try it. We ordered the Diavola ($30) because I am addicted to spice. I am not normally the biggest fan of a tomato base — sometimes it can taste just too sour, without any real flavours or sweetness. What I noticed about this tomato base though was that it was distinctively sweeter and saltier. I can say with confidence that this is one of the best tomato-based pizzas I’ve eaten. They also have a range of white-base pizzas. We ordered the Cheesy Tony ($30), which had a smorgasbord of different cheeses from gorgonzola and parmesan to smoked scamorza and ricotta. It was all covered in hot honey, which wasn’t that hot (but that’s OK, I bring my own chilli powder in my purse), and basil for a welcome pop of freshness. The crust on both pizzas was soft and airy, without being floppy. There was a bit of extra char because of the Neapolitan style, which I could appreciate, but I did find that I was dodging the blackened spots after a couple of slices. For a pizzeria, Maestro has an extensive list of appetisers as well as a couple of pasta options. The deep fried crocche ($16) were bronzed, fried rolls of mashed potato and stringy cheese. They were dangerously addictive, and a must try. We also got the oven-baked gnocchi bolognese ($32), which was a shareable portion of tender gnocchi bathed in a meaty ragu. As for dessert, if there is a tiramisu ($15) I will order it. There was no booze in this one but the cocoa was lovely and bitter enough to cut through the cream with ease, so I still enjoyed it. Maestro is operating at the top of its game. Trust the international award and book the table — this is essential eating. Maestro Sourdough Pizza 111C Flora Terrace, North Beach OPEN Wednesday-Monday: 5pm-9pm CONTACT 9448 8851, maestropizza.com.au BOOKINGS Yes THE VERDICT An over-achieving Neapolitan-style pizzeria with lots to love. 18/20